This is the first part of the
article, "Lamont's Glasspak Modification"
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Step by step for removing the
baffles
by Lamont
- When drilling out the spot welds go ahead and use a bit that is larger than the spot
welds, I use a 1/2" bullet bit. A bullet bit has a pilot bit built into the
bit. They are made by Black & Decker.
- When drilling the spot welds that are under the bracket use the other spot welds on
either side of the bracket as a layout. They will be in the same place. On these two
welds it is a good idea to drill a small hole and work your way up. Sometimes it is
hard to get the bit to center in the right spot on the weld that is right by the
corner of the bracket. You may need to grind the bracket back a little to get to
this weld.
- ALWAYS keep the bit cool. You can use oil or water but if you let the stainless get red
hot it will put a dimple in the can and make it harder than it all ready is to get the
baffles out. Wonder how I know that.
- After cutting both ends and drilling out the spot welds you are ready for the hard part.
Take a piece of scrap angle about 10" long and about 1.5" by 1.5" by 3/16
or 1/4" and weld it on the header end of the baffles with the same amount of angle
hanging over both ends. You should be able to weld it to the three pieces that separate
the baffles themselves. Put a good heavy weld on this. Now there is two ways you can do
this... you can use your vice or a steel table for creating a stop for the slide hammer
you just made. If you use a vice open the jaws big enough so that the pipe will move
freely in the vice. Grab the outside of the can and pull it toward you hitting the angle
on the side of the vice. What this will do is put an even pull on the baffles. You can
weld a couple of pieces of scrap to a steel table and do the same thing as long as the
pipe can slide back and forth and the angle hits the scrap iron that you just welded to
the table. You may brake off the angle and have to weld it back again but this is the best
way I have found to get the baffles out.
The reason you want to weld the angle on the header end is because if you try to remove
the baffles from the other end you will wind up hitting the nuts that are welded on the
inside that hold you tips on as the baffle gets about half way out. There are two rings in
the middle that cap the pipe , you can't see them till you get to the end. What ever
tweaking you may do to the pipe getting the cans out can be straighten out with a ball
peen hammer.
I have done this after doing the shrimplin cut and it was allot easier but you have
another weld on the pipes so it's up to you. You can use the factory seam weld for line up
so it should be no big deal to get everything
Lamont; 
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