Glasspacks for the Valkyrie
So you've cut the piggies, punched out your baffles and maybe even done the
"Shrimplin Cut" but you're still not happy.

by Lamont Bryden

New Easy Glasspack Mod

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You don't want to spend $600 to $800 for pipes that look like blued organ pipes but still have a need for a little more sound. Well, this may be the mod for you! I have done this mod on four bikes now and so far everyone loves it. The comment I get the most is " now that's the way this bike should sound".

Mvc-009f.jpg (51214 bytes) So now it's time to hook up with your local welding shop or muff man and start hacking up your $1600 stock pipes. I say that because if your not comfortable with hacking into your pipes then you better stop now. This is not for the faint of heart! The first thing you do is go out and make sure you can find the glass packs before you tear down your bike. Of course you knew that. What you are looking for is two 18" or 24" packs and one 12" pack. Mvc-007f.jpg (55398 bytes)

You will save about 7 lbs if you go with the 18" packs and will be able to put your stock tips back on.  If you go with the 24" packs you will have to change out the tips. The 12" pack is just so you can cut the ends off for welding on the end of the other packs for collectors. This will all make sense in a minute. All three packs should run you about $80.00 .

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Should look like this when cut...


Now that you have your packs you can go ahead and take your pipes off and all of the chrome sheet metal. Next thing you do is go ahead and put your pipes in a vise and mark around the can about 3" from the header (see arrow above) with a pipe wrap or a thick piece of paper that will give you a straight line all the way around. Now take a handheld bandsaw or a hacksaw and make your cut on the pipe at the mark.

 

Now you can cut the end off where the piggies were as close as you can to the edge so that you can save the nuts that hold on your tips. Some of you may be thinking I can use my chopsaw to cut this, but if you do the chrome covers won't fit right because of what you lost in the cut.

Now here comes the hard part, removing the baffles. See related article; Removing the Baffles

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Now that you got the baffles out you are ready to start putting it all back together. Start by cutting the ends off of the 12" pack and welding on the end of the 18" or 24" pack. The glass packs are made to go one way but we are going to put our cone on the other end. If you look in the packs you will see all these little cups.

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What we want is to weld the cone so that exhaust flows over the cups and not into them. This will make it a little louder and the packs will last longer.

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Now that you have the cone welded on, set the pack next
to the can and line up the header ends, (above)

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What you need to do now is make a mark on the can where the nuts that are welded inside of the can that hold the tips on. Now take a ball peen hammer and beat a dent from the mark on the pack to the end of the pack. You have to make a bigger dent for the right side to clear the dent that is in the can.

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Now drop the pack in the can and recess it about 1/8 of an inch. Weld the cone to the can. You will have to tack the cone to the pipe and beat the cone to fit the pipe.

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Now stand the header straight up and set the can on the header and line up the factory seam weld.

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Weld all the way around and then grind smooth so that the chrome sheet metal covers fit flat.

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Now put your bike back together and fire her up! Now it's up to you if you want to rejet.

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I did the shims on Gales bike and Brads and it worked fine.
I went ahead and rejetted my bike and gained a little more power.

If you still have questions you can email me    LaMonster